We have to face up to the fact that summer is over and it is now officially fall. It's time to put away the flip flops and get back to work (although if you spent the summer wearing flip flops you better have spent your summer on the beach).
The men's wear look continues with power suits (pants and pin-stripes) and structured separates. The wide legged pant is also a must. For outer wear, tailored coats are a must. Brown is the big colour for fall. After a few years of navy and gray getting all the attention, brown is everywhere this fall. Remember to mix it up. Throw in a pattern or two and break up the chunks of solid color with other hues.
Consider the Anti-Suit – break apart your suit and bring new life to your wardrobe by mixing up tailored separates with sharp sportswear. Fine-gauge corduroy trousers are a good foundation, and you can build from there.
Turtlenecks are cool. No, really, they are. They've gotten a bum rap in the past – as recently as last year, but trust me: they are the de rigueur on-duty piece this season. There were some signs last year that they might be making a comeback – a whisper here, a style shot there – but with the volume of runway shows the micro-trend is popping up on this fall, turtlenecks are a sure thing.
Pairing a turtleneck with something structured is a perfect way to update a slim fit suit. Try mixing tone-on-tone neutrals, like a camel sweater with a charcoal suit and brown shoes. Turtlenecks also work well under a button up shirt in place of or paired with a cardigan for a less formal but equally mod look.
Not all men were created equal, however, and you should take this into consideration when picking out the right sweater for you. Jersey and fine-gage knits are generally unforgiving as they accentuate the curves beneath them. Not to worry if your waistline is, ahem, generous; try a chunky knit turtleneck or stick to [layering it under] a button up. Choose what is most suitable for your body type.
Fair warning: the chunkier the sweater, the less subtle it is, so keep that in mind if you are a bit weary about this trend. The easiest and most versatile way to incorporate it is to add a camel coloured or heather grey thin gage turtleneck sweater. The neutral tone will work with most of your wardrobe and the thin gage makes it a breeze to layer.
How to Pull Off a Sweater with a Suit: If you are going to wear a sweater under a suit, opt for one in extra-thin merino wool or cashmere.
THE MAN IN CHARGE: WHAT THE NEW BREED OF DOUBLE BREASTED SUITS CAN DO FOR YOU
Step One: Give the DB suit a chance. Used to be that wearing a suit to work was an act of submission, of following a code. But today, it's more like an act of aggression-that in a world in which suiting up is increasingly seen as optional, wearing a suit, much less one of the new breed of slim-cut double-breasted suits, brands you a maverick. The DB suit is swagger incarnate.
Step Two: Find the right suit. The beef that most of you have with old-school DB suits is that all the extra cloth can make even the fit-test guy look kind of beefy. To prevent the undue appearance of extra pounds, look for wools (or wool-silk blends) in the 10-14 oz range. When in doubt, it's always better to go light than heavy.
Step Three: Nail the details: There are all kinds of configurations for the buttons on a DB jacket; however, the six on two is the most versatile and flattering. Also, there is a time for a notch lapel in a man's style arsenal, and the DB suit isn't it. Look for peak lapels that provide some angles (and some attitude) to the proceedings.
Step Four: Get the right fit: If you're a member of the one-size-up, I-like-my-jacket-roomy club, the DB suit is NOT for you. The jacket should hug your sides, the sleeves should be cut slim, and the shoulders should have as little padding as possible. The close fit you get with most of today's double-breasted suits is essential for pulling it off.
Step Five: Go all the way: You can get away with playing it safe in the shirt, tie and accessories departments, but the whole point of the DB suit is to do whatever the opposite of playing safe is. Take chances with patterns, colours and textures, and if sparks fly, all the better!
NOW . . . THE PERFECT SUIT
A cheap suit is as easy to spot in a crowd as a bad toupee. As a rule, it's far better to have two great suits than five mediocre ones. Start with a rich midnight blue, a few shades darker than the average navy. This suit will transition beautifully from day to night, and can be worn with both black and dark-brown shoes. It goes with just about everything. In fact, you'd have to try extremely hard to find a shirt-and-tie combo those clashes with the right dark-blue suit. Choose a solid blue or try a subtle pattern, be it herringbone, windowpane, or the classic pinstripe. No other suit will give you as much mileage.
THE PERFECT FIT
You could have the most expensive suit on the market, but if it doesn't fit properly, you're going to look like a farmer. A suit should be neither too tight nor too loose. It should gently hug the body, but not restrict you in anyway.
A suit jacket should pull smoothly across you back when buttoned. The lapels are meant t to lay flat across the chest. Seams should fall long your shoulder, the suit should have a trim line that follows the lines of your body and your sleeve length should allow some shirt cuff to show.
The Buttons: The number of buttons on a suit has more to do with a preference than fit. On a three-button suit, the only button that gets used is the waist, or middle button. When there are two buttons, fasten only the top one. An elegant alternative is the single-button suit, which offers a sharp, formal look.
The Vents: Double vents make it easier to pull the jacket close to your frame, particularly if you're solidly built. Single vents keep the silhouette slim, but allow for easy access to your pockets.
Double-Breasted vs. Single-Breasted: The single-breasted suit should be your default choice for both work and play. The double-breasted version is a dashing, continental choice that's chic, but not for men on the shorter side. One other tip: Always keep it buttoned.
Now, once you decide on the above details with your suit, you need to now consider your SUIT BASICS:
The Shoulders: A good suit starts at the shoulders. It should fit your posture and flatter your frame. If your suit jacket doesn't make you look better when you put it on, you're wearing the wrong one.
The Lapel: Avoid narrow and extra wide and keep it somewhere in the middle Also consider whether you prefer a notched lapel-which is customary-or a more dramatic peaked version.
The Buttons: Suit snobs pay close attention to the buttons on the sleeve of a suit jacket. Most suits, even those from top European designers, have sleeve buttons that don't actually unbutton but are strictly for show. The best suits have working button holes on the sleeves. And while you're not likely to ever see anyone rolling up the sleeve of the suit jacket unless his name is Michael Jackson, some flashier types like undoing these buttons in order to show off the superior hand tailoring of their garment.
The Pattern: Stripes and checks are the most popular patterns for suits-though these are often so subtle they are not noticeable from even a short distance. A better suit carefully matches where the patterns meet and overlap, which stripes continuing across the seams perfectly.
The Pockets: Most suits are delivered with the pockets sewn shut. Pull them open, but don't loan them with your PDA, keys, or iPod as this will ruin the silhouette.
The Lining: Subtle or shocking, a good lining, like functional button holes on the sleeve, allows suit junkies another opportunity to demonstrate their sartorial flair.
The Stitching: Superior suits are hand-stitched by a tailor. Although fusing – a fancy word for the suit being glued together – is commonplace for off-the-rack suits, a truly handmade suit will be sewn by artisans. This will be reflected in the price.
THE MIXING AND MATCHING RULES OF STRIPES AND PLAIDS OF SHIRTS:
THE TWO-MINUTE GUIDE TO MATCHING PATTERNS:
Striped shirt/patterned tie: Instead of stripe on stripe, opt for a tie with dots or diamonds
Striped shirt/micropatterned tie: Keep the stripes and tie in the same colour area. Matching is overrated.
Solid shirt/striped tie: Co-ordinate the tie's minor colour (ie the narrow stripe) with the colour of the shirt.
Striped shirt/striped jacket: Never pair patterns too close in scale. A fine stripe complements a thicker one.
Solid shirt/checked jacket: The bolder the check on the jacket, the plainer the colour or pattern of the shirt.
Striped shirt/solid jacket: Punch up a dark jacket with a bright shirt, or a mottled jacket with a sharp shirt stripe.
For more detailed shirts:
GINGHAM SHIRT? Rule: Stick with a dark tie with a subtle pattern.
WINDOWPANE SHIRT: Rule: Choose a diagonal striped tie that echoes the colors of the shirt.
GLEN PLAID SHIRT? Rule: A thick-striped tie perfectly accents the boldness of a glen plaid.
FINE STRIPE SHIRT? Rule: Textured knit ties are best.
MULTI-STRIPED SHIRT? Rule: Pick a narrow tie whose color complements the shade of one of the stripes.
BENGAL STRIPE SHIRT? Rule: Pair a dark tie with subtle pattern
TIES:
As we finally move away from the casual Friday dress code, which managed to bleed into the entire work week, it's time to revisit the ultimate men's accessory. A necktie signals that you care about your clothes and how they look. Whether with jeans and a blazer or a sharp suit, the right tie can take an outfit from schlumpy to stylish with a quick flip of the wrist. So by all means, prepare to tie one on.
The Right Length: Bigger isn't better when it comes to ties. Rule #1: The bottom of your tie should never extend below your waistline.
Well-Made: A properly knotted tie is meant to arc from the neck a bit. It's easier to accomplish this with a well-made silk tie, but a tab collar or the tie bar with assist in achieving the same effect.
The Width: Tie widths tend to vary from one year to the next. You can try to keep up with the comings and goings of a fickly fashion flock, but with miles of ties out there-and the fact that a well-cared for one can last a life time, you are better off finding a style that fits you r face and frame.
The Dimple: Much overlooked is the dimple, which should lie directly below the knot. A tie without a dimple is like pants without a fly. It absolutely needs to be there.
The Knot: The knot you choose depends mostly on the shape of your shirt collar – please see below:
THE KNOTS:
FULL WINDSOR: A full Windsor knot should be used with a wide spread collar.
The Windsor Knot is a thick, wide and triangular tie knot that projects confidence. It would therefore be your knot of choice for presentations, job interviews, courtroom appearances etc. It is best suited for spread collar shirts and it's actually quite easy to do. While just about everyone can use this tie knot to tie his tie, it looks especially well on men with longer necks as its wide form shortens the perceived height of the neck.
HALF WINDSOR: For medium spread collars, opt for a half Windsor.
The Half Windsor Knot, a modest version of the Windsor Knot, is a symmetrical and triangular tie knot that you can use with any dress shirt. It works best with somewhat wider neckties made from light to medium fabrics.
FOUR-IN-HAND: A four-in-hand knot is ideal for pointy or button-down collars.
The Four in Hand Knot makes for a narrow, more discreet and slightly asymmetrical tie knot. It is best suited for a standard button-down dress shirt and works best with wide neckties made from heavy fabrics. While this tie knot can be worn by anyone, it looks especially well on men with shorter necks as the knot's rather narrow and elongated form stretches the perceived height of the neck a tiny bit.
THE PRATT KNOT (ALSO KNOW AS THE SHELBY KNOT): Is tidy and fairly wide, yet not as wide as the Windsor Knot. It is well suited for any dress shirt and somewhat wider neckties made from light to medium fabrics.
FOR AN ILLUSTRATION ON HOW TO TIE THESE KNOTS PLEASE CLICK HERE.
The All-Business Socks
In Canada we give little thought to the socks we wear for work. We know they should be dark enough to match the suit, but we don't get bogged down in detail. In Italy, however, midcalf-length cotton dress socks – the norm for the American working man – are considered the attire of bus drivers, and any sock that affords even a glimpse of hairy calf when a man crosses his legs regulates him to caveman status. Nothing less than an almost knee-length sock in navy merino wool will do, with a percentage of nylon for longevity. Try a pair from the Travelling Tailor.
Good Brown Shoes
Let's say you closed your eyes and imagined a pair of dress shoes. The pair you'd imagine would necessarily possess a kind of Shoeness, the collective platonic qualities that make up the perfect form of a shoe. Something between sturdy and slight, expensive and inexpensive, shiny and dull, Italian and English (which is to say, American). The pair of shoes you're thinking of would probably look like the Brooks Brothers cap-toe bluchers. In brown.
If you owned only one pair of shoes, this would be the pair you'd want. They function: you can wear them wiht a suit or jeans. They feel good: whatever they do to the calfskin that lines the inside of the shoe is a small miracle. They last: you can brutalize them, wearing them way too often and walking in them way too long. (They can take it. Good leather can always take it.) And, finally, they just look right: the toe cap contributes all the visual interest a man's shoe really needs. You pay $75 for resoling every couple years and $5 for a shine every couple of weeks, and you could get away with wearing this one pair for the rest of your life.
The Ever-Ready Office Closet
For that five-minute warning before an unexpected lunch, cocktail, or date with the boss
- A pristine, laundered white shirt.
- A pair of plain steel oval cuff links: they go with anything.
- Fresh socks and underwear to give you an unparalleled sense of well-being. (Trust me)
- A plain navy tie, free of stains and creases.
- A home-grade steamer to spruce up your suit in no time.
- An umbrella. Because rain is the ruin of many a good jacket, and even a few promising careers.
What To Do About Smelly Shoes
Prevention: wash your feet more often and wash your socks even more often, and don't wear the same pair of shoes every day. (Ideally, have three interchangeable pairs of dress shoes.) Also, try inserting unvarnished cedar shoe trees into just-removed shoes. They'll absorb persperation, deodorize the shoes, and straighten them out after daily wear.Cure: change your insoles, or better, take your shoes to a cobbler to have the insoles replaced. Beyond that, contact your local exorcist.
The Two-Minute Guide to Matching Patterns
 Striped shirt / patterned tie: instead of stripe on stripe, opt for a tie with dots or diamonds. |
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 Striped shirt / micropatterned tie: keep the stripes and tie in the same colour area. Matching is overrated. |
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 Solid shirt / striped tie: coordinate the tie's minor colour (i.e., the narrow stripe) with the colour of the shirt. |
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 Striped shirt / striped jacket: never pair pair patterns too close in scale; here, a fine stripe complements a thicker one. |
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 Solid shirt / checked jacket: the bolder the check on the jacket, the plainer the colour or pattern of the shirt. |
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 Striped shirt / solid jacket: punch up a dark jacket with a bright shirt, or a mottled jacket with a sharp shirt stripe. |
Swim(suit) Yourself
| Trunks – For the Real Man Not all of us have 3 percent body fat. Luckily, anyone can pull off flat-front swim trunks with a plain waistband. Aim for a suit that hits at midthigh; your legs can use the sun. |
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Board Shorts – For Tall Men Why tall guys? Because long trunks make short legs look even shorter. Wear these just below the knee – if they're at your calves, you'll look stubbier than Lenny Dykstra. |
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Elastic Waist – For Fit Men If you're carrying a few extra pounds, steer clear of these trunks. Clinched elastic puts the squeeze on that spare tire. Not pretty. |
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